Invasion Stripes

Invasion Stripes

How to paint D-Day markings on your Thunderbolt

by Ed Mate

The first step is to determine where the stripes go. There is an “official” placement, but if you can check photos, you may find your subject has some differences from the official guide.

The photo of Silver Lady shows standard fuselage stripes and the wing stripes appear to be 20 inches wide, but the wing stripes are outboard of the official placement. Moving the inboard stripe to the outside and adjusting the black & white pattern to maintain two black stripes in the middle appears about correct. Note the black stripe spanning across the aileron and flap just like the outboard white stripe should.

I started with some tape strips cut to a scale 20″ wide and placed the first piece where the black stripe straddles the aileron & flap. More strips of tape placed side by side lays out the stripes on the top of the wing. Scrap tape is placed outside the five 20″ tape strips and then the 20″ tape strips are removed. Repeat on each wing on top and bottom.

The fuselage is a little trickier. It turns out that starting the rear stripe just ahead of the tail wheel well has the forward edge of the white stripe on a vertical panel line. (Thank you for little miracles.) I used some short pieces of tape cut to a scale 18″ wide to help locate the rearmost vertical line. Place the front edge of the 18″ tape pieces on the panel line in several places around the fuselage. A narrow piece of tape cut on a curve (about 200 mm radius) is placed abutting the rear edges of the 18″ strips of tape. The curvature of the narrow tape will appear vertical on the fuselage due to the tapering of the shape towards the rear. By keeping the tape narrow, some flexibility is available so the curvature doesn’t have to be perfect. With the rear most vertical edge established, I measured a scale 90″ inches (5 x 18″) forward and marked several spots with short pieces of tape. Another narrow curved piece of tape is wrapped around the fuselage abutting the short pieces to establish the forward vertical edge of the stripes. Add wider pieces of tape to prevent overspray on to the other parts of the model. Also, determine if the landing gear doors were painted and prepare them to be painted if needed. Also take a close look at the intercooler doors on the fuselage to see how they were painted – they often do not match the stripes well. Notice Silver Lady’s intercooler bay is painted black, but the bottom of the door is not completely painted black.

Here is my model (Tamiya kit) with the fields for the invasion stripes exposed and the edges masked to prevent overspray on the areas outside of the fields. You might also notice the small piece of tape covering the spot inside the field on the left wing. That is where the bar for the national insignia ends up. There is a similar piece on the bottom of the right wing. Be sure to mask for the insignias so that there will only be one color under the decal – otherwise it is likely the line of color change will be seen.

Paint the exposed fields white. I used some dark grey preshading on the panel lines to help break up the stark solid white. You might also note that I painted the stripes before painting the rest of the model. That is a modeler’s choice – the technique works either way. I prefer to limit the amount of masking I do over natural metal silver finishes so I painted the stripes first.

Mask the white stripes. Relocate the strips of tape that were cut 20″ wide and place them back on the model. The outboard and inboard white stripes are masked by placing the strips against the edges of the tape that determines the field. Another 20″ strip placed against the edges of those stripes should generate an open spot in the middle that is filled with the last 20″ strip of tape. Lift the two strips of tape where the black will be painted. Repeat for other wing and the bottoms. Again, the fuselage is a little trickier. The 18″ short bits of tape are used to find the edges of the stripes just like the rear edge of the field was found. Narrow curved pieces of tape are placed on the model along the edges of the pieces. Once the edges of the white stripes are masked, the centers are filled in with scraps of tape.

Don’t forget to mask for the national insignia! I create the tape mask for the insignia by photo copying the decals to be used on the model. I place the photo copy over a piece of tape and cut through both just inside the outside edges of the insignia.

When you layout the fuselage stripes, you’re going to find out that Tamiya placed the right fuselage side intercooler bay about 0.015″ forward of the one on the left side. The good news is that the insignia breaks up the edge of the black stripe passing by so it will be hard to notice unless you’re looking for it.

Paint the black stripes. I used black ever so slightly lightened with grey and then post shaded the panel lines with pure black to help break up the stark black much like the preshade was used for the white.

Don’t forget to paint the gear doors at the same time.

Now mask the black stripes and remove the tape outside of the edges of the field so that the rest of the model can be painted using your usual techniques.

I find painting basic shapes like stripes much easier than applying very large decals that can wrinkle, silver, blister, etc. Invasion stripes are not really that difficult, but some patience is needed – it might take two hours to get the tape in the correct location, then just 10 minutes to spray the paint.

Final results on the completed model.

 

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Superdetail Conversion – Trumpeter 1/350 Nimitz to Carl Vinson

Superdetailing the Carl Vinson in 1/350 scale

by Dave Kopielski

I started with the Nimitz model and converted it to the USS Carl Vinson CVN-70 as she was at the start of the 1983 world cruise (her maiden deployment).  All differences as well as the hangar bay details were scratch built. I purchased extra aircraft sets to fill ship with all 86 aircraft. The decals for the hangar bay and aircraft were made by me. The ship is also illuminated with over 500 feet of fiber optic lines and 40 LED’s.  Photoetch sets were used on the ship and for all the aircraft. The ship is also accented with resin CIWS and deck tractors, 3-D printed hangar doorways and Tilly Crash tractor.

A total of 777 hours were spent building.

Additional pictures can be found at the following locations.

On the IPMS-USA website – https://gallery.ipmsusa3.org/index.php?/category/davekop

On Facebook (build pics, no login required) – https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10208964525897838.1073741834.1457024256&type=1&l=50e8812e52

On Flickr (high resolution images) – https://www.flickr.com/photos/128642409@N05/albums/72157687002588814

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Frankentanken

Frankentanken

by Ed Mate

The 108 gal. paper tanks in the Tamiya 1/48 P-47D Thunderbolt kits are decent, but the modeler is challenged with cleaning up the seams on the nose and tail without destroying the fine raised detail. On many of my kits that last “rib” of fine detail is detached due to the difficulty of removing the parts from the mold. This is the reason I looked into the Eduard Brassin product.

However, working with the Brassin parts a number of other modeling challenges appear. The parts don’t attach to the model the same way so a mounting system must be created, multi-media – the straps and some details are made of metal and must be bonded to the resin, but by far the worst on this Brassin set is dealing with removal of the pour stub and clean up of the resulting mess.

Additionally, Eduard did not provide the “strap” at the transition from the cylinder to the nose and tail parts so an additional set of straps must be fabricated. I find it easier to work in plastic than in metal so I fixed up a tank using 0.005″ plastic strips:

The challenge with this approach is keeping the center straps parallel with each other and the front and rear strips while using near-instant drying super glue to bond the mixed media (plastic to resin).

Looking for a solution to these issues led me to my current approach – the Frankentanken. This Frankenstein approach uses the kit parts for the cylinder and straps and the Brassin nose and tail parts with their nicely done rib detail.

The first step is to assemble the Tamiya kit parts paying close attention to the center cylinder to get the seam as good as possible with the straps aligned. No need to worry about closing the gaps at the nose and tail.

The next step is to clean up the seams like any seam work done on a plastic model. I like to use a Flexi-file with a sanding strip that has been thinned to easily fit between the closest straps near the tail. Then I polish out any scratches with fine grit sanding pads.

Now, cut off the nose and the tail. I use a razor saw and leave a little “waste” for final clean up ahead and behind the front and rear straps.

Now carefully trim the waste away and clean up the ends so they are nice and square. I use my lathe for this step but it can be done with a flat file – choose one that is wide enough to cover the full diameter. Also, I found that removing the alignment pin protrusions on the inside helps avoid any interference with the resin parts.

Now this is a very important step – do not neglect it! Drill a small diameter hole through the cylinder from outside to inside. I locate the hole in the mounting tab so it won’t be seen and won’t need clean up later. I discovered this the hard way. Epoxy cures with a thermal reaction that heats up the air trapped inside the cylinder. The expanding air ejects the part being bonded. So if you don’t want to hold the parts together for a seeming eternity, drill the hole to give the heated air a route to escape.

Next, attach the resin nose and tail with 5-minute epoxy. I do this in two sessions gluing first the tail then the nose. This approach takes the pressure off (no pun intended) in getting the parts aligned properly both axially and rotationally so the filler spots show up in the correct location relative to the mounting tab. I like 5-minute epoxy for this because it gives some time to align things and it will fill the small gap at the seam between the resin and plastic.

I’ve used the Brassin set photo etch filler cap and feed tube cover and I’ve salvaged the filler cap from the Tamiya part. Once those are in place, paint and attach to the model as you would have with the kit parts.

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Minicraft P-3C Orion in 1/72nd Scale

Minicraft P-3C Orion, No. 1147, in 1/72nd scale

by Paul Gasiorowski

Escuadrilla Aeronaval de Exploración (EA6E) (Exploration naval Sqd)

The first P-3 Orion entered service in 1962. It was based on Lockheed passenger aircraft the Electra, shortened in the nose and a MAD boom added which added about 6 feet to the length of the plane. It is in use by several navies, Australia, New Zealand, Spain, Norway, Argentina, Chile, Brazil, Japan, U.S. Customs, Germany, Canada, Spain and others throughout the world. The US Navy is transitioning from the Orion to the P-8 Poseidon.

The model was obtained from a former member Dick Smith who had completed most of the kit except for the propellers and landing gear. I put it on a shelf in the garage where it sat for many years, collecting dust, etc. The reason to complete the kit was the theme for February which was “South of the Border”. I happened to find that the Argentine Navy had several of these aircraft, plus I was able to find a decal sheet for the Argentine Armada, more on the decals later.

Since the kit was mostly complete, I started off by washing the whole thing with soap and water and a toothbrush. Using a hairdryer to blow off most off the water and whatever got inside the aircraft. I then let it sit for a day or and shook it to make sure all the water was out of it. After doing some research on the colors, etc. and receiving the decals it was determined that the colors were Intermediate Blue (35164) and Gull Grey (FS36440). The colors used were Model Master Acrylics.

The decals were from http://www.dekls.com.au. The decal sheet calls out the following colors Grey 26440 Gunze Sango and Intermediate Blue 35109 Gunze Sango H56. The decals are a little different since they are produced as a mirror image, which requires you ‘flip’ the decal over before you apply it. This makes DEK L’s a little easier to apply because it reduces the risk of ‘curling’ or clinging to things. The decals are produced on a continuous piece of decal film, so accurate trimming is necessary. FYI, if you want to build an F-86 Sabre, they have a many different foreign Demo squadron decals. Some of the color schemes are very colorful.

The first thing I did was give it a couple of light coats of Tamiya Gray primer to make sure everything was covered and let it sit for a couple of days to completely dry. I did some rough masking prior to painting the lower fuselage with a couple of coats of Gull Gray. Then I spent some time masking off the lower fuselage and engine nacelles, this took quite a bit of time as I wanted the separation to look the same on all the engine nacelles. This was followed by several light coats of Intermediate Blue. The nose and glare panel on the front of the fuselage was masked off a given two coats of flat black. It was then followed with several light coats of “Future”. Letting is sit for a couple of days, I then glued in all the clear parts. The front windshield was not glued in because it was a great fit. I did give the edges of the windshield a touch of black highlighter on the bottom edge and touched up the upper edges with intermediate blue.

The decals came next, starting with the squadron emblem of the tail. The decal sheet came with a white decal the same size as the color decal, which helps keeping the colors from bleeding through. So I started at the back of the airplane on the port side and worked my way forward. I did the window frame decals the next day. The frame decals were kind of fussy to get down, so once I got them where they should be, I walked away. The following day I did the port side of the plane. There was some silvering of the large decals, especially the long “ARMADA ARGENTINA”. So it would take another coat or two to have a really glossy base. I have yet to knock down the gloss with a flat yet to see if the silvering goes away.

The next thing I worked on was the propellers. I painted the props with primer gray, followed by flat white 2 coats and then the Gloss Red (small bottle) tips, after I masked everything off. The spinners (2 pieces) were painted flat black. Then everything was glued together. The props don’t move because the original shafts were glued in and just attached with glue. Some of the shafts had to be sanded down a bit to make sure the prop assemblies sat flush with the nacelles.

The plane did not come with any missiles, but had the mounts. So I went to the 1/72 missile kit and dug out some Harpoons, which I assembled. I guess if you’re an Anti-submarine/Anti-ship plane you should be carrying some firepower. I painted these up in the appropriate colors and hung them under the wings. I finished the plane by adding some radio wire from the front of the plane to the tail. I used some small brass eyelets from a photo etch kit or the front attachments and drilled a tiny hole in the front of the upper tail and ran some nylon sewing line through it to

the eyelets in the front. After everything dried I ran a black felt tip along the wires to make sure they were visible. I touched up the hole it the tail with a dab of Intermediate Blue.

For not having to build the model from the beginning, it was a nice easy job to finish it. Dick Smith did do a lot of filling and sanding before I got to it. One thing this plane takes up a lot of space, about 18″ x 18″. Dick did give me the original box, which I thought just had the rest of the kit in it, but it was another whole kit.

Bonus pics (not in the PDF review)

 

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2017 February Meeting Notes

February 17, 2017 McKinstry Meeting
Theme: South of the Border/South America
Program: Using washes, Mike Hanlon

Notes by Paul Gasiorowski and The Tick

Attendees were: Paul Gasiorowski, THE TICK, Mike Hanlon, Lee Lygiros, Charlie Scardon, Bill Soppet, Dan Paulien, Steve Kumamoto, Frank Ress, Jim Batchelder, Brian Gardner, Mark Murray, and Carl Geiger

The meeting was held back in conference room I. With just 13 members attending in February, It is apparent that this room is a bit tight for our needs. After talking to the library, we seem to be stuck with just this option for now. It might be time to look for another option after meeting in this library since 1982.

Charlie’s suggestion last month that we theme the August meeting for the 75th anniversary of the Guadalcanal landings led Frank to suggest that we have dual-track themes for our meetings the next few years. We could continue both our usual eclectic themes and a WWII 75th theme each month, in observation of the events of WWII.  Frank agreed to come up with a list of candidate themes for WWII.

Program: Using washes, Mike Hanlon

Mike Hanlon demo’d his weathering/wash technique as applied to his Tamiya Me 262.

1/48th Scale Tamiya Me-262-A1 WIP: RLM81 Braunviolet, RLM 82 Lt Green over RLM 76 Blue Gray. RLM 81 and RLM 76 mixed from Tamiya paints/RLM 82 Gunze Sangyo H422 Lt Green.

Mike looks confident and knowledgeable. Carl looks at something else – but at least he’s color coordinated.

Wash on wings, Mig Dark Wash an enamel wash removed with odorless mineral spirits (Turpenoid) Advantages: Capable of creating streaks and stains. Disadvantages: Slow drying time, must be applied over an acrylic barrier if using enamel paints.

Wash on fuselage: Flory Models Dark Dirt Wash, a water based clay wash. Advantages: Very quick drying time; doesn’t damage underlying paint, removed with water. Dis-advantages: Can’t really be used to create the streaking effects possible with enamel or oil washes.

Mike working without his glasses…

Theme: South of the Border/South America

F-16B, 1/72nd, Hobbyboss, built by Paul Gasiorowski

The kit went together quite well. Seams at the fuselage/wing joint were almost non-existent. Paints used were Model Master Acrylics, dark seagGrey and blue grey upper fuselage and light gull grey lower fuselage. Decals sheet was from Zotz, which included markings for Netherlands, Norway, Jordan Italy, U.A.E., Singapore, Thailand and Indonesia.

This was a 2 seat version of the F-16 used by Fuerza Aerea Chile. No squadron/unit/group  was given, but a guess based on tail serial would be Grupo no.3 at los Condores, AB. WHY isn’t this info on the decal instructions???

P-3B Orion, 1/72nd, Minicraft (Hasegawa), built by Paul Gasiorowski

A partial build that Dick Smith gave to Paul when he was moving to Arizona. (Amazing. Dick still has the 1st penny he got for shoveling the side alk back in 1902!!) It sat on the shelf for several years before Paul decided to finish the model.

Finishing the kit was quite easy. Masking of the nacelles took some time. Model Master Acrylics: intermediate blue and sea gray. Fortunately decals were found in Australia to meet the south of the border theme. Markings are from a DEKL’S decal release for a Chilean P-3B. Markings for Escuadrilla Aeronaval de Exploración EA6E. (Exploration naval Sq).

Crazy Charlie and his undersea fleet

Yep. That’s right… back again from the November meeting when he faked his own death.

Charlie’s been a busy boy this past month, playing with acrylics and Hydrocal 105. The result is he has finished 10 subs. And here we go… take it away Crazy Charlie.

“I made all the bases in my usual way. They are AMT car cases with a 1/4 x 1/4 square tube frame. I used Hydrocal 105 to make the water. Acrylic paints were used to color the water. I used Liquitex medium gel and high gloss varnish to over coat the paint and add swells along the hull. I experimented a bit with the Hydrocal to create the large swells on the Delta III kit and the results were good.”

U-3504 Type XXI U-boat, 1/700th, Skywave, built by Charlie Scardon

Model Master hellgrau 50 naval color with Vallejo yellow. Charlie added a black wash to emphasize the limber hole on the hull and replaced the oversized 20mm guns with .010 brass rod.

U-2338 Type XXIII U-boat, 1/700th, Skywave, built by Charlie Scardon

Model Master hellgrau 50 naval color with white stripe.

Soviet Oscar II, 1/700th, DML, built by Charlie Scardon

Floquil grimy black. Decals from kit.

Soviet Delta III, 1/700th, DML, built by Charlie Scardon

Floquil grimy black. Decals from kit.

Soviet Typhoon, 1/700th, DML, built by Charlie Scardon

Floquil grimy black. Decals from kit.

North Korean Romeo, 1/700th, Hobby Boss, built by Charlie Scardon

Hull is Soviet interior blue/green with Floquil weathered black deck. I added a wash to emphasize the limber holes on the hull. The railings were from some unknown PE sheet.

HMS Torbay, 1/700th, Arii, built by Charlie Scardon

A real pig of a kit. Panel lines were filled with .020 plastic rod and MEK. Makes Johan kits look finessed. Sail altered by adding some kind of array (purpose unknown) on the port side. Hey, Norris – you photographed the wrong side! It was made out of styrene rod and quarter round stripes. It was made to resemble photos I found on the internet. The paint is Vallejo 70.965 Prussian blue.

USS Pintado w/ DSRV Mystic, 1/700th, JAG, built by Charlie Scardon

Added periscope and sensor to sail. Periscope was made from a tear shaped strut from a WW1 aircraft. DSRV was modified by removing the solid disc that represented the propeller and guard. It was replaced with wire struts and a guard made out of scrap PE. Charlie annealed the brass on the stovetop. It was then rolled into a ring. Annealing removes the memory from the metal. The tiny propeller is from Toms Modelworks. The braces fro the DSRV are PE boat storage racks. The DSRV was painted silver and then coated with a translucent green. Other markings are decal. The Pintado is Floquil engine black and Testor white. The decal on the bow is from a DML kit.

USS Barb, 1/700th, JAG, built by Charlie Scardon

Periscopes and sensors were made the same way as the Pintado. The paint is Floquil engine black.

USS Scorpion, 1/700th, DML, built by Charlie Scardon

Painted with Floquil engine black and White Ensign ocean gray #17. The kit consists of a hull, two dive planes, and a rudder. Periscopes were made with brass rod.

And for perspective – USS Scorpion again. A picture really can’t do these outstanding miniatures justice! (Click the image for a REALLY close look!)

 

And a couple of parting shots…  The motley crew (some more than others).

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2017 January Meeting Notes

January 20, 2017 McKinstry Meeting
Theme: Prop jobs and ships – Korean War

Notes by Paul Gasiorowski and The Tick

Attendees were: Paul Gasiorowski, THE TICK, Mike Hanlon, Jim Batchelder, Frank Ress, Brian Gardner, Charlie Scardon, Steve Kumamoto

The meeting was held in the Cardinal Room. Everyone seemed to like it better than conference room I or the Hendricksen Room. It’s an in between size, but comfortable. (We’ve made inquiries, and the current library policy is that they’ll only make the Cardinal Room available to groups like ours if we’re bumped from a reservation in the Hendricksen Room. And, of course, the primary problem with that is that we can’t get reservations for the Hendricksen in the first place. Frank has requested that the library revisit this policy, due to decreased availability of the Hendricksen Room, but the response so far has been negative.)

Star Wars TIE fighter, 1/72nd, Bandai, built by Mike Hanlon

Built OOB, no English translation in the instructions or indication what colors to use. Mike used neutral gray and neutral gray with 20% white added. The base was made so other Bandai Star War pieces could be attached inline.

P-40B, 1/48th, Airfix, built by Mike Hanlon

Xtra Decals depicting a Russian P-40 1941-2. Vallejo paints were used including dark O.D. and neutral gray. Light blue was used to simulate painting over the U.S. Insignia as the P-40’s were delivered to Russia with U.S. markings.

F7F-3N, 1/72nd, Monogram, built by Steve Kumamoto

Scratch built radar operator compartment (seat, instrument panel, etc.) and nose wheel well. The rear canopy was vac formed over a plaster mold. The nose from canopy forward is a custom vac formed piece. Replacement props are Aero Club with square tips.

Boeing 787 Dreamliner, 1/144th, Zveda, built by Paul Gasiorowski

Paul reports the overall fit of this kit is very good – the wing to fuselage fit was so good that glue is not necessary to attach it to the fuselage. He used Model Master Acrylics. The model was built OOB. The kit decals were for a Boeing Demonstrator for United Airlines from F-Dcal. The sheet included decals for the windows. The clear kit windows were glued in and then sanded smooth to the fuselage. The engines were little kits in themselves containing about 15 parts each. When finished it’s a big kit, it needs about 1.5 sq. feet of space.

Read Paul’s kit review (soon to come) for additional details.

F-14 Tomcat, 1/48th, Tamiya, built by James Batchelder

Built out of the box, it was a good build – basically shake and bake. This kit is the best engineered Tomcat in any scale. Jim encountered no problems assembling it. Model Master paints used throughout. Clear blue was used to tint the canopy. The decals represent VF-84 Jolly Roger squadron.

Sea Fury F.B. Mk II, 1/48th, Hobbycraft, built by Paul Gasiorowski

Built OOB, including photo etch, Vac canopy, and resin side panels. Photo etch parts and resin side panels are hidden once the canopy goes on. There was no need for any filler to be used. Model Master acrylics. Decals for a British carrier based a/c during the Korean War.

Typhoon, Oscar II, Delta III, Ohio class, 1/700th, DML, built by Charlie Scardon

Work in progress.  Subjects listed top to bottom in left image.

What the???

The moment Steve notices that he scratch built the wrong type nose wheel gear section, and that the rear strut is backawards (sic)…

…and Charlie evidently couldn’t care less – he’s still tryin’ to figure out that new-fangled ‘smart’ phone…

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2016 November Meeting Notes

November 18, 2016 McKinstry Meeting
Theme: Radial Engines Post-WWII

Notes by Paul Gasiorowski and The Tick

Attendees were: Frank Ress, Paul Gasiorowski, Jim Batchelder, THE TICK, Charlie Scardon, Steve Kumamoto, Dan Paulien, Carl Geiger, Mike Hanlon

There were not so many members at the November meeting so we had some extra time. After the business part of the meeting was finished, we discussed many subjects – “stuff” like Mike Hanlon’s tanning salon visits and the annual Butch O’Hare contest. It appears the contest rules have changed up over the years. The Tick mentioned he would try to get a set of the rules via Bill Soppet, but of course that likely won’t happen because the Tick always has “other stuff” on his mind…

Since there was plenty of time, Mike Hanlon tried to use as much of the evening as he could to talk about his current build, knowing full well that he had a longer leash than usual. 2016-nov-meeting-01

Yes, he really pushed it, to the point Charlie indicated he couldn’t handle it any more.
Hanlon went on, and on… and on…

 

 

Charlie, exhausted, took a nap… and Hanlon continued to drone on. Droning on… extolling how great his craftsmanship has become and the virtues of the kit itself.

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One of the guys had a tube of lipstick so… Like who knew the Tick was an artist? 2016-nov-meeting-02WE WON’T identify what member was thoughtful enough to have lipstick, but Charlie is grateful that it wasn’t a Sharpie.

 

 

 

 

Butch O’Hare Award

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After Hanlon ran out of words… discussion turned to the display table McKinstry had at the annual O’Hare show. Our club was deemed to have the best display and rewarded with the Butch O’Hare “Best Club Display 2016 Award” for the 3rd year in a row.  A three-peat! We expect this feat will generate as much buzz for the club as it did for the Bulls.

For his time and energy organizing this project, the McMembership presented the plaque to Paul Gasiorowski.. WELL done, Paul!

Those who loaded the table (and behind it) included James Batchelder, Paul Gasiorowski, Carl Geiger, Mike Hanlon, Steve Kumamoto, Ed Mate, Dan Paulien, Frank Ress, Charlie Scardon, and the Tick.

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There was some discussion of ideas for next year’s show. Comments included the idea that we have a THEME or two to put on the tables.

Paul suggested airliners, or 144 scale jets. Of course, he’d have to supply most of the models in these categories – he says he has 6 or so. Sounds like his memory is going, or that he’s estimating only 6 to throw off the wife.

Another suggestion was to get away from Thunderbolts, we had plenty at this years table. We should be more diverse to try to be best of show again in 2017. Hmmm. It might be a challenge for some members to come up with anything OTHER than T-bolts; can a leopard change it’s spots?

Library Display

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IPMS McKinstry put up our annual display at the library. This time around, the theme was Pearl Harbor. Included were models of aircraft and ships present plus several books, a map, and other information describing the attack.

Thanks to the club members who provided items and helped set up the display: Brian Gardner, Paul Gasiorowski, Steve Kumamoto, Frank Ress, Charlie Scardon, and Dan Paulien.

Models for the VA

Paul Gasiorowski collected models and supplies for distribution to Hines VA Hospital, Maywood, IL. and the Lovell VA Administration, Naval Station Great Lakes. In all, Paul delivered over 60 kits to each plus modeling supplies. I don’t have a complete list of those who donated, but the Santa list did include Brian Gardner, Paul, Steve Kumamoto and Frank Ress.

A-1H Skyraider, 1/48th, Tamiya, built by Norris Graser

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Model Master 34079 green, 30219 tan, 36622. Gunze 34102 green. AeroMaster decals for SPAD. DAD ~ CO’s a/c 6 SOS.

F-86D Sabre, 1/72nd, Hasegawa, built by Steve Kumamoto

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Built many moons ago, out of the box with MicroScale decals. Overall Floquil silver. Markings are for F-86D-45 4th FIS at Misawa. Steve thought this was a nice, solid kit.

Hurricane Mk-1a, 1/48th, Airfix, built by Mike Hanlon

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Italeri paints: dark earth, Middlestone and azure blue. Mike used AeroMaster decals for an aircraft based at Malta.

These planes had special tropical filters installed. Mike had to do some surgery to bring the airplane up to date. There were some fit issues, and the armor plate behind the seat was glued in first, then he shoved the cockpit into the fuselage from the bottom.

F-82G Twin Mustang, 1/72nd, Monogram, built by Steve Kumamoto

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68th FS. Markings represent the 1st air to air kill during the Korean War, downing a YAK 11. The 1st 3 enemy a/c shot down in the Korean War were by 68th FS F-82’s.

Prototype XP-82s, P-82Bs and P-82Es retained both fully equipped cockpits so that pilots could fly the aircraft from either position, alternating control on long flights. Later night fighter versions kept the cockpit on the left side only, placing the radar operator in the right position.

Sea Fury, 1/72nd, Hobbycraft, built by Charlie Scardon

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Gunze Sangyo paint. Kit decals. Photo-etched metal included in the kit for antenna, cockpit details, and seatbelts. The wheel wells had very little detail.

PB4Y-1, 1/72nd, Minicraft, built by Charlie Scardon

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Built out of the box and in post war reserve markings for San Diego that sent to Alaska on a special deployment (hence the red high-visibility paint). Decals were from a variety of Superscale sheets. See Charlie’s kit review for additional background on the kit and Charlie’s build.

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